Owner Scorecard


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LANV, Lanvin Group Holdings Limited

Textiles & Apparel consumer brand UnprofitableDistress / turnaround

A consumer-brand business, where the durable asset is the brand and the pricing power it commands.

Latest annual: FY2024 20-F · figures as filed, in EUR
LANV · Lanvin Group Holdings Limited
I

The business

What it sells, where the money comes from, the kind of company it is.

Revenue · FY2024
€291M
−31.7% YoY · 7% 4-yr CAGR
Vital signs · TTM, with 5-yr average
Revenue €291M 5-yr avg €342M
Gross margin 54% 5-yr avg 56%
Operating margin −59.8% 5-yr avg −41.2%
ROIC −89% 5-yr avg −53%
Owner-earnings margin −36% 5-yr avg −28%
Free cash flow margin −36% 5-yr avg −28%

The business in brief

read the 10-K →

What this business is and what moves its needle, from its own SEC filings.

Situation
Unprofitable. No sustained operating profit across the record; an earnings multiple has nothing to rest on. What the record does show is revenue, the gross-margin trajectory, and the burn against the cash on hand. Distress / turnaround. Thin interest coverage, or operating cash burned against real debt, across the record. The balance sheet carries this situation; the debt schedule sets the clock.
What moves the needle
Operating margin has run around −48% through the cycle on a 56% gross margin, the operating line in the red even at its best — so the lever is whether the spending below the gross line can come down enough to clear a profit: revenue growth against the cost curve, and the cash runway until it does. Inventory runs near 26% of sales, so how fast it turns back into cash — and the risk of writing it down when demand softens — sits alongside the margin. On its own account, the filing leans hardest on customer concentration, set against the numbers in what the filing emphasizes, below.
Is it a good business?
Return on capital has rarely cleared the cost of capital (median −48%, above 15% in 0 of 5 years). Owner earnings, the cash-based check, have been thin too. This is price-taker territory, where the balance sheet and the cycle matter more than any multiple; the rest is in the 10-K.

Every line is arithmetic on the company's filings, shown in full in the sections below.

Where the money comes from

read the 20-F →

Revenue spreads across 4 regions, the largest North America at 43%.

Revenue by geography, FY2024
  • North America43%€124M
  • EMEA39%€115M
  • Greater China12%€34M
  • Other Asia7%€20M

From the segment footnote of the company's own 20-F. Shares are of total revenue; the profit bar shows each segment's share of segment operating profit, before unallocated corporate costs.

II

The record

Ten years of arithmetic, read across the cycle.

The record, 2020–2024

realized figures from each filing · older years to the left
2020’202021’212022’222023’232024’24TTMTTMJun 2025
Income statement
€223M€309M€422M€426M€329M€291MRevenueRevenue
53%55%56%59%56%54%Gross marginGross mgn
(€124M)(€63M)(€225M)(€122M)(€156M)(€174M)Operating incomeOp. inc.
−55.8%−20.3%−53.4%−28.7%−47.6%−59.8%Operating marginOp. mgn
(€111M)(€65M)(€218M)(€129M)(€165M)(€181M)Net incomeNet inc.
Cash flow & returns
(€87M)(€73M)(€81M)(€58M)(€59M)(€95M)Operating cash flowOp. cash
€48M€42M€46M€47M€47M€45MDepreciationDeprec.
(€25M)(€49M)€92M€24M€59M€40MWorking capital & otherWC & other
€6M€10M€25M€43M€13M€10MCapexCapex
2.6%3.2%5.8%10.0%4.0%3.6%Capex / revenueCapex/rev
(€93M)(€83M)(€106M)(€101M)(€72M)(€106M)Owner earningsOwner earn.
−41.8%−26.9%−25.0%−23.6%−22.0%−36.3%Owner earnings marginOE mgn
(€93M)(€83M)(€106M)(€101M)(€72M)(€106M)Free cash flowFCF
−41.8%−26.9%−25.0%−23.6%−22.0%−36.3%Free cash flow marginFCF mgn
-48%-20%-75%-46%-77%-89%ROICROIC
-44%-25%-74%-76%Return on equityROE
−44%−25%−74%−76%Retained to equityRetained/eq
Balance sheet
€44M€89M€92M€28M€18M€30MCash & investmentsCash+inv
€40M€49M€46M€28M€24MReceivablesReceiv.
€92M€109M€107M€90M€74MInventoryInvent.
€132M€158M€153M€118M€98MOperating working capitalOper. WC
€263M€280M€207M€165M€165MCurrent assetsCur. assets
€223M€233M€288M€416M€476MCurrent liabilitiesCur. liab.
1.2×1.2×0.7×0.4×0.3×Current ratioCurr. ratio
€69M€69M€69M€38M€38MGoodwillGoodwill
€706M€732M€688M€614M€585MTotal assetsAssets
€67M€33M€68M€184M€269MTotal debtDebt
(€22M)(€58M)€40M€166M€239MNet debt / (cash)Net debt
-9.6×-6.7×-15.5×-6.0×-5.2×-5.9×Interest coverageInt. cov.
€250M€264M€295M€169M(€4M)(€85M)Shareholders’ equityEquity
Per share
72.6M77.9M101M132M117M117MShares out (diluted)Shares
€3.07€3.97€4.16€3.24€2.80€2.49Revenue / shareRev/sh
€-1.53€-0.84€-2.15€-0.98€-1.41€-1.55EPS (diluted)EPS
€-1.28€-1.07€-1.04€-0.76€-0.62€-0.90Owner earnings / shareOE/sh
€-1.28€-1.07€-1.04€-0.76€-0.62€-0.90Free cash flow / shareFCF/sh
€0.08€0.13€0.24€0.32€0.11€0.09Cap. spending / shareCapex/sh
€3.45€3.40€2.91€1.29€-0.04€-0.73Book value / shareBVPS
Per-share growththe realized rate an owner's share compounded
4-yr5-yr
Revenue / share−2.2%/yr−2.2%/yr (4-yr)
Capital spending / share+9.2%/yr+9.2%/yr (4-yr)

The record, charted

FY2020–2024

Each measure over its full record; the current point and the worst year marked.

Share count
117Mpeak FY2023
ROIC
−77%low FY2024
Gross margin
56%low FY2020

Owner earnings vs. net income

Owner earningsNet income

The accountant's number, and the cash an owner can take; the gap is the tell.

(€72M)owner earningsvs.(€165M)net incomelow FY2022

Net income is the accountant's number; owner earnings is the cash an owner could take out. The walk between them, off the cash-flow statement, and whether the gap is widening or holding.

In fiscal 2024 the business turned a €165M loss into (€72M) of owner earnings: more cash than the profit line showed, after the non-cash charges and the capital it put back in.

FY2024FY2023FY2022FY2021FY2020
Reported net income(€165M)(€129M)(€218M)(€65M)(€111M)
Depreciation & amortizationnon-cash charge added back+€47M+€47M+€46M+€42M+€48M
Working capital & othertiming of cash in and out, other non-cash items+€59M+€24M+€92M−€49M−€25M
Cash from operations(€59M)(€58M)(€81M)(€73M)(€87M)
Capital expenditurecash put back in to keep running and to grow−€13M−€43M−€25M−€10M−€6M
Owner earnings(€72M)(€101M)(€106M)(€83M)(€93M)
Owner-earnings marginowner earnings ÷ revenue-22%-24%-25%-27%-42%

Owner earnings is the cash an owner could pull out without starving the business: operating cash less the capital it must spend to hold its position .

Maintenance capex is estimated as depreciation where a growing business invests above it; free cash flow is the figure the scorecard's free-cash margin reads.

III

Quality & stewardship

Returns, the balance sheet, capital allocation, and pay.

Owner’s Scorecard

FY2024 20-F · source on SEC EDGAR →

Will it survive?

  • Does not cover its interest
    Operating income (€174M) ÷ interest expense €29M
    What this means

    A full year of operating profit didn't cover the interest bill. This is the zombie zone: the business depends on refinancing, asset sales, or forbearance to service its debt.

  • Net debt against an operating loss
    Cash €30M − debt €269M
    What this means

    Netting €30M of cash and short-term investments against €269M of debt leaves €239M owed, with no operating profit this year to measure it against — understand that combination before anything else about the company. Net debt is the leverage figure that matters: the cash is already set against the debt. Strategic or illiquid investments aren't counted here.

  • Not enough data
    What this means

    The filing data didn't include the inputs for this check.

Is it a good business?

  • Below average through the cycle
    5-yr median, range -77%–-20%; -89% latest = NOPAT (€137M) ÷ invested capital €154M
    Industry peers: median 14%
    What this means

    The rate the business earns on the money tied up in it, Buffett's north star, because over time a stock tracks the ROIC beneath it. Above ~15% sustained hints at a moat; a return below the cost of capital (~8%) erodes value as a business grows rather than building it — the test Buffett weighs most. The headline is the median of the last 5 years (it ran -89% most recently), so one peak or trough year doesn't set the verdict. Asset-light businesses (R&D expensed, little capital) read artificially high, pair this with Owner Earnings.

  • Consumes cash through the cycle
    5-yr median margin, range -42%–-22%; latest (€106M) = operating cash (€95M) − maintenance capex €10M
    Industry peers: median 7%
    What this means

    What an owner could take out without starving the business: operating cash less the maintenance capital it must spend to hold its position — Buffett's owner earnings. That's -36% of revenue this year, a -25% median across 5 years.

  • Loss, and burning cash
    Net income (€181M) · cash from operations (€95M)
    What this means

    The company reported a net loss, so a conversion ratio isn't meaningful. What matters then is whether operations still threw off cash, here, they did not.

How is the cash used?

  • Not enough data
    What this means

    The filing data didn't include the inputs for this check.

  • Investing or harvesting? 0.23×
    Harvesting
    Capex €10M ÷ depreciation €45M
    What this means

    Descriptive, not a grade. Above ~1× means investing faster than assets wear out (growth, or, sustained for years, today's earnings carrying less depreciation than tomorrow's will). Below means spending less than it's wearing out (efficiency, or a melting asset base). The ratio won't tell you which; the filings will.

Graham’s defensive tests · 0 of 4 met

Graham’s numerical criteria for the defensive investor (The Intelligent Investor, ch. 14), run on the filings. A floor of safety, not a buy signal; many fine modern businesses fail his strictest liquidity rules by design.

  • Adequate size
    Revenue ≥ $2B (a dollar floor) · €291M
    What this means

    Big enough to weather a storm. Graham's floor is a dollar figure — about $2B of revenue as a conservative modern stand-in. This company reports in its home currency and we carry no exchange rate, so we show the figure and leave the size bar for you to apply rather than convert it with a number we don't have.

  • Strong liquidity Miss
    Current ratio ≥ 2× · 0.35×
    What this means

    Current assets at least twice current liabilities, near-term bills covered without touching the business. Strict by design: many cash-rich modern firms run leaner and miss it, holding their cushion in longer-dated securities.

  • Conservative debt Miss
    Debt ≤ working capital · €269M vs (€311M) WC
    What this means

    Graham's rule that borrowings not exceed net current assets. Capital-heavy and buyback-heavy firms routinely fail it, read it next to interest coverage, not alone.

  • Earnings stability Miss
    A profit every year (5-yr record) · 5 loss years
    What this means

    Graham wanted earnings in each of the past ten years, the stability a defensive owner leans on.

  • Dividend record Miss
    Uninterrupted dividends · none paid
    What this means

    An unbroken dividend was Graham's mark of durability. He wanted twenty years; the filings show about ten, and a single suspension breaks the streak. Non-payers, many fine modern compounders, fall outside his defensive net by design.

  • Moderate price
    P/E ≤ 15 and P/E × P/B ≤ 22.5 · decided by the price
    What this means

    Graham's valuation gate, the wall he kept between a sound business and a sound investment. Three-year average earnings are €-1.36/share (latest year €-1.44), the averaged base the calculator's gate runs on, and book value is €-0.68/share. Enter a price in “What the price implies” just below for the P/E, P/B, and whether it clears. But this is the rule Buffett outgrew: there's no hard P/E law, and a wonderful business can deserve a far richer multiple if the thesis holds, treat it as the bargain-hunter's floor, not a verdict on the price.

Durability & moat, 2020–2024

Whether the record’s returns held, and what the capital reinvested earned.

  • Profitable years 0 of 5
    What this means

    Lost money in 5 year(s), look at what happened there before trusting the average.

  • Return on capital ≥ 15% 0 of 4 yrs
    What this means

    A moat shows up as a high return on invested capital that holds year after year, not one good vintage.

  • Operating margin −38% → −38% (2-yr avg ends)

    In the filing’s words Input costs rose and the filing says it recovered them in price — consistent with the margin holding here.

    What this means

    Through the cycle the operating margin held roughly steady — about −38% early, −38% lately, median −48%.

  • Reinvestment, incremental ROIC returns capital
    What this means

    The capital base barely grew: this business returns cash through dividends and buybacks rather than reinvesting. Judge it on the cash returned, not on compounding.

  • Worst year 2020 · −55.8% op. margin
    What this means

    Operations went underwater in 2020, understand why before trusting the good years.

  • Share count +12.7%/yr
    What this means

    The share count is rising, dilution works against you on a per-share basis.

Does AI threaten the moat?

Moderate contestability

AI is likely to reshape costs and some products here without clearly contesting or sparing the core moat; how the company itself frames it is the tell.

The question is whether a moat the record shows as durable outlasts a technology that lowers the cost of part of what the firm sells. The durability is read in the record above, the filing's own framing of AI beside it; the industry label decides nothing on its own.

Read from the filing's own risk factors, paired with the industry's structure under its SIC code; the durability is read above, the price below.

All figures as filed; the source filing is linked above.

Current Position

as of fiscal year-end, Jun 30, 2025

Can the business pay what it owes this year, off the freshest balance sheet: the quality of the assets, the debt actually coming due, and what a low ratio means here.

Current assets€165M
  • Cash & short-term investments€30M
  • Receivables€24M
  • Inventory€74M
  • Other current assets€38M
Current liabilities€476M
  • Debt due within a year€259M
  • Other current liabilities€217M
Current ratio0.35×all current assets ÷ what's due · Graham looked for 2×
Quick ratio0.19×stricter: inventory excluded
Cash ratio0.06×strictest: cash alone against what's due
Working capital(€311M)the cushion left after near-term bills
Debt due this year vs. cash€259M due · €30M cash cash alone won't cover the maturities; it leans on refinancing or operating cash · both figures from the Jun 30, 2025 balance sheet
Cash runway0.3 yrsthe business is consuming cash; this is how long the cash on hand lasts at that rate
Deeper floors
Tangible book value(€335M)equity stripped of goodwill & intangibles
Net current asset value(€528M)Graham's net-net: current assets less all liabilities
Debt incl. operating leases€402M€133M of it operating leases

From the company's latest filing.

Acquisitions & goodwill

from the balance sheet & the 5-year cash-flow record

Goodwill grows only when a company acquires and falls only when it concedes it overpaid. The size of that bet, the cash put into buying rather than building, and how much has already been written off.

Goodwill & intangibles€250M43% of all assets; the premium carried on the balance sheet for businesses acquired
Against book equitygoodwill is this share of book equity; the rest is the company’s own retained and paid-in capital
Cash spent acquiring€0over 5 years buying other businesses, against €96M of capital spent building

None written down over the record; the goodwill is still carried at full cost. That is the deals holding their value on the books so far; whether they keep doing so is the test an owner watches, since the write-down, when it comes, is the admission the price was too high.

Goodwill, acquired intangibles and equity from the latest balance sheet; acquisition spend and write-downs summed across the 5-year record, from the company's own filings.

What an owner would ask, FY2025

read the 10-K →
  • How much of the revenue rides on one buyer?
    ≈€28M · 10% of revenue on the largest customers (TTM)
    “Sales to our five largest customers were 9.6% and 7.1% of our revenues for the years ended December 31, 2025 and 2024, respectively.”verify →

The questions the record and the charts do not answer on their own; each carries the figure and the place to look.

Peers, Textiles & Apparel

The same industry, side by side on owner economics. Each figure is a through-cycle median, so a peak or trough year can’t distort it; the group median at the foot is the line to read each against.

CompanyRevenueGross marginOp. marginROICOwner earn. margin
LEVILevi Strauss & Co$6.3B58%9.8%23%5%
UAUnder Armour Inc.$5.0B46%2.3%4%2%
COLMColumbia Sportswear$3.4B50%10.7%18%10%
GIIIG-III Apparel$3.0B36%6.3%9%4%
CRICarter's$2.9B43%11.0%24%9%
OXMOxford Industries$1.5B59%8.0%14%7%
FIGSFIGS Inc.$631M70%6.0%8%8%
LANVLanvin Group Holdings Limited€291M56%-47.6%-48%-25%
Group median53%7.2%11%6%
IV

The price

What a price has to assume.

What the price implies

reverse-DCF

Enter the home-market price, not the US ADR quote. Lanvin Group Holdings Limited reports in EUR, and every figure here (owner earnings, book value, the share count) is on that EUR, ordinary-share basis. Enter the price on the same basis: the local-exchange quote per ordinary share in EUR. A US ADR price in dollars bundles the ADR-to-ordinary ratio and the exchange rate, so it will not reconcile with these figures and would throw the multiple off.

Lanvin Group Holdings Limited is profitable, but owner earnings are negative this year because capital spending currently outruns operating cash, a build-out, so the owner-earnings reverse-DCF has no positive base to grow. We read the price from both ends instead: type a price to see the steady-state profitability it demands, then set the mature margin you would believe and weigh the two against each other. Nothing leaves your browser unless you enter it in your notebook.

The assumptions

Revenue, delivered12%/yr’20→’24

Enter a price to run it.

Owner earnings it must reach
Margin the price demands
Owner-earnings margin today−36%

Two reads of one future. From your price: the owner earnings the company must reach, valued at a mature multiple and discounted back at your rate, expressed as the margin it implies on revenue grown at your rate. From your belief: the mature margin you would credit, set on the dial above. When the margin the price demands runs above the one you would believe, you are paying for a future taken on faith. For a deep cyclical at a trough, normalized through-cycle earnings are the better lens; this mode is for the genuinely unprofitable, and for the profitable business whose capital spending currently outruns its cash.

Cite: Owner Scorecard, "Lanvin Group Holdings Limited (LANV), the owner's record," https://ownerscorecard.com/c/LANV, data as of 2026-07-09.

Manual order: ← LAES its page in the Manual LEGN →

Industry order: ← KTB the Textiles & Apparel chapter LEVI →