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ZGN, Ermenegildo Zegna N.V.
Revenue is led by ZEGNA brand (62%) and Tom Ford Fashion (17%), with 2 more lines behind.
The business
What it sells, where the money comes from, the kind of company it is.
The business in brief
What this business is and what moves its needle, from its own SEC filings.
- What it is
- A consumer-brand business, where the durable asset is the brand and the pricing power it commands.
- Situation
- Cyclical. Margins collapse and recover repeatedly across the record; a single year, good or bad, misstates the through-cycle earning power.
- What moves the needle
- Gross margin has run about 64% and operating margin about 7.3% through the cycle, a wide spread between price and the cost of what it sells — whether that advantage is durable pricing power or a margin that can erode is the question the record is for. The operating margin has swung widely — from −7.3% to 11% — on a steadier 64% gross margin, so what moves it sits below the gross line, in operating spend and one-off charges more than in the cost of the product itself. Inventory runs near 27% of sales, so how fast it turns back into cash — and the risk of writing it down when demand softens — sits alongside the margin.
- Is it a good business?
- Return on capital has sat near the cost of capital (median 11%). By owner earnings: roughly 10% of revenue reaches owners as cash, consistently. The cycle and the balance sheet decide this one; the worst year tells more than the median, and the rest is in the 10-K.
Every line is arithmetic on the company's filings, shown in full in the sections below.
Where the money comes from
read the 20-F →ZEGNA brand is 62% of revenue, with Tom Ford Fashion the other meaningful line at 17%.
- ZEGNA brand62%€1.2B
- Tom Ford Fashion17%€317M
- Thom Browne14%€268M
- Textile7%€134M
- Other1%€16M
From the segment footnote of the company's own 20-F. Shares are of total revenue; the profit bar shows each segment's share of segment operating profit, before unallocated corporate costs.
The record
Ten years of arithmetic, read across the cycle.
The record, 2019–2025
realized figures from each filing · older years to the left| 2019’19 | 2020’20 | 2021’21 | 2022’22 | 2023’23 | 2024’24 | 2025’25 | TTMTTMDec 2025 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Income statement | ||||||||
| €1.3B | €1.0B | €1.3B | €1.5B | €1.9B | €1.9B | €1.9B | €1.9B | RevenueRevenue |
| — | — | 62% | 62% | 64% | 67% | 68% | 68% | Gross marginGross mgn |
| €89M | (€23M) | (€94M) | €148M | €208M | €167M | €139M | €139M | Operating incomeOp. inc. |
| 6.7% | −2.2% | −7.3% | 9.9% | 10.9% | 8.6% | 7.3% | 7.3% | Operating marginOp. mgn |
| €22M | (€51M) | (€136M) | €51M | €122M | €77M | €99M | €99M | Net incomeNet inc. |
| — | — | — | 41% | 22% | 34% | 24% | 24% | Effective tax rateTax rate |
| Cash flow & returns | ||||||||
| €174M | €71M | €281M | €146M | €275M | €279M | €336M | €336M | Operating cash flowOp. cash |
| €168M | €166M | €155M | €172M | €193M | €225M | €245M | €245M | DepreciationDeprec. |
| (€16M) | (€45M) | €262M | (€77M) | (€39M) | (€23M) | (€8M) | (€8M) | Working capital & otherWC & other |
| €46M | €28M | €80M | €49M | €57M | €100M | €81M | €81M | CapexCapex |
| 3.5% | 2.7% | 6.2% | 3.3% | 3.0% | 5.1% | 4.2% | 4.2% | Capex / revenueCapex/rev |
| €128M | €43M | €201M | €97M | €218M | €179M | €255M | €255M | Owner earningsOwner earn. |
| 9.7% | 4.3% | 15.6% | 6.5% | 11.5% | 9.2% | 13.3% | 13.3% | Owner earnings marginOE mgn |
| €128M | €43M | €201M | €97M | €218M | €179M | €255M | €255M | Free cash flowFCF |
| 9.7% | 4.3% | 15.6% | 6.5% | 11.5% | 9.2% | 13.3% | 13.3% | Free cash flow marginFCF mgn |
| €0 | €0 | €102K | €22M | €25M | €30M | €30M | €30M | Dividends paidDiv. paid |
| €0 | €0 | €455M | €0 | €0 | — | — | — | BuybacksBuybacks |
| 9% | -2% | -12% | 14% | 25% | 12% | 11% | 11% | ROICROIC |
| 3% | -8% | -23% | 8% | 14% | 8% | 10% | 10% | Return on equityROE |
| 3% | −8% | −23% | 4% | 11% | 5% | 7% | 7% | Retained to equityRetained/eq |
| Balance sheet | ||||||||
| €211M | €667M | €800M | €575M | €387M | €296M | €298M | €298M | Cash & investmentsCash+inv |
| — | €139M | €160M | €177M | €240M | €249M | €227M | €227M | ReceivablesReceiv. |
| — | €321M | €338M | €411M | €523M | €521M | €507M | €507M | InventoryInvent. |
| — | €188M | €223M | €271M | €314M | €310M | €326M | €326M | Accounts payablePayables |
| — | €272M | €276M | €317M | €449M | €460M | €408M | €408M | Operating working capitalOper. WC |
| — | €1.2B | €1.4B | €1.3B | €1.3B | €1.2B | €1.2B | €1.2B | Current assetsCur. assets |
| — | €535M | €702M | €867M | €1.0B | €853M | €750M | €750M | Current liabilitiesCur. liab. |
| — | 2.3× | 2.0× | 1.5× | 1.3× | 1.4× | 1.6× | 1.6× | Current ratioCurr. ratio |
| €420M | €388M | €425M | €456M | €572M | €614M | €554M | €554M | GoodwillGoodwill |
| — | €2.4B | €2.5B | €2.4B | €2.8B | €2.8B | €2.8B | €2.8B | Total assetsAssets |
| — | €559M | €472M | €185M | €113M | €196M | €162M | €162M | Total debtDebt |
| — | (€109M) | (€329M) | (€390M) | (€274M) | (€100M) | (€135M) | (€135M) | Net debt / (cash)Net debt |
| 2.4× | -0.5× | -2.1× | 2.7× | 3.1× | 3.2× | 2.8× | 2.8× | Interest coverageInt. cov. |
| €730M | €602M | €601M | €679M | €840M | €916M | €1.0B | €1.0B | Shareholders’ equityEquity |
| Per share | ||||||||
| 202M | 201M | 203M | 238M | 247M | 252M | 260M | 260M | Shares out (diluted)Shares |
| €6.56 | €5.04 | €6.35 | €6.28 | €7.71 | €7.74 | €7.38 | €7.38 | Revenue / shareRev/sh |
| €0.11 | €-0.25 | €-0.67 | €0.22 | €0.49 | €0.31 | €0.38 | €0.38 | EPS (diluted)EPS |
| €0.64 | €0.21 | €0.99 | €0.41 | €0.88 | €0.71 | €0.98 | €0.98 | Owner earnings / shareOE/sh |
| €0.64 | €0.21 | €0.99 | €0.41 | €0.88 | €0.71 | €0.98 | €0.98 | Free cash flow / shareFCF/sh |
| €0.00 | €0.00 | €0.00 | €0.09 | €0.10 | €0.12 | €0.12 | €0.12 | Dividends / shareDiv/sh |
| €0.23 | €0.14 | €0.39 | €0.21 | €0.23 | €0.40 | €0.31 | €0.31 | Cap. spending / shareCapex/sh |
| €3.62 | €2.99 | €2.95 | €2.86 | €3.40 | €3.64 | €3.97 | €3.97 | Book value / shareBVPS |
| 6-yr | 5-yr | |
|---|---|---|
| Revenue / share | +2.0%/yr | +8.0%/yr |
| Owner earnings / share | +7.5%/yr | +35.5%/yr |
| EPS | +23.3%/yr | — |
| Capital spending / share | +5.2%/yr | +17.7%/yr |
| Book value / share | +1.6%/yr | +5.9%/yr |
The record, charted
FY2019–2025Each measure over its full record; the current point and the worst year marked.
Owner earnings vs. net income
Owner earningsNet incomeThe accountant's number, and the cash an owner can take; the gap is the tell.
Where the cash went
ReinvestBuybacksDividendsAcquisitionsRetainedEach year's operating cash, by what management did with it: the mix, and how it drifts.
Net income is the accountant's number; owner earnings is the cash an owner could take out. The walk between them, off the cash-flow statement, and whether the gap is widening or holding.
In fiscal 2025 the business turned €99M of profit into €255M of owner earnings: more cash than the profit line showed, after the non-cash charges and the capital it put back in.
| FY2025 | FY2024 | FY2023 | FY2022 | FY2021 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Reported net income | €99M | €77M | €122M | €51M | (€136M) |
| Depreciation & amortizationnon-cash charge added back | +€245M | +€225M | +€193M | +€172M | +€155M |
| Working capital & othertiming of cash in and out, other non-cash items | −€8M | −€23M | −€39M | −€77M | +€262M |
| Cash from operations | €336M | €279M | €275M | €146M | €281M |
| Capital expenditurecash put back in to keep running and to grow | −€81M | −€100M | −€57M | −€49M | −€80M |
| Owner earnings | €255M | €179M | €218M | €97M | €201M |
| Owner-earnings marginowner earnings ÷ revenue | 13% | 9% | 11% | 7% | 16% |
Owner earnings is the cash an owner could pull out without starving the business: operating cash less the capital it must spend to hold its position .
Maintenance capex is estimated as depreciation where a growing business invests above it; free cash flow is the figure the scorecard's free-cash margin reads.
Quality & stewardship
Returns, the balance sheet, capital allocation, and pay.
Owner’s Scorecard
Will it survive?
- AdequateOperating income €139M ÷ interest expense €50M
What this means
Comfortable in a normal year, but below the margin of safety Graham looked for. Worth checking how stable the coverage has been across a full cycle.
- Net cashCash €220M + ST investments €77M − debt €162M
What this means
Cash and short-term investments exceed every dollar of debt by €135M, on net the company owes nothing, and can act from strength when others can't. Net debt is the leverage figure that matters: the cash is already set against the debt. Strategic or illiquid investments aren't counted here.
- Long (60+ days)DSO 43 + DIO 297 − DPO 191 days
What this means
Days cash is tied up between paying suppliers and collecting from customers. Lower is better; a long cycle means growth itself eats cash.
Is it a good business?
- Solid through the cycle7-yr median, range -12%–25%; 11% latest = NOPAT €106M ÷ invested capital €973MIndustry peers: median 14%
What this means
The rate the business earns on the money tied up in it, Buffett's north star, because over time a stock tracks the ROIC beneath it. Above ~15% sustained hints at a moat; a return below the cost of capital (~8%) erodes value as a business grows rather than building it — the test Buffett weighs most. The headline is the median of the last 7 years (it ran 11% most recently), so one peak or trough year doesn't set the verdict. Asset-light businesses (R&D expensed, little capital) read artificially high, pair this with Owner Earnings.
- Solid through the cycle7-yr median margin, range 4%–16%; latest €255M = operating cash €336M − maintenance capex €81MIndustry peers: median 7%
What this means
What an owner could take out without starving the business: operating cash less the maintenance capital it must spend to hold its position — Buffett's owner earnings. That's 13% of revenue this year, a 10% median across 7 years.
- Cash-backedCash from ops €336M ÷ net income €99M
What this means
How much of reported profit showed up as operating cash. Above 1× is reassuring; well below suggests earnings lean on accruals. One year is noisy, growth and working-capital swings distort it, and this is operating cash, not free cash. Watch the multi-year trend.
How is the cash used?
- Reinvests most of itDividends + buybacks €30M ÷ Owner Earnings €255M
What this means
Of €255M Owner Earnings, €30M (12%) went back to shareholders, €30M dividends, €0 buybacks. Returning most of it is the mark of a mature business with little left to reinvest at a high return; reinvesting most could mean a long runway, or empire-building. The split doesn't say which; the return earned on it (see ROIC) does.
- Investing or harvesting? 0.33×HarvestingCapex €81M ÷ depreciation €245M
What this means
Descriptive, not a grade. Above ~1× means investing faster than assets wear out (growth, or, sustained for years, today's earnings carrying less depreciation than tomorrow's will). Below means spending less than it's wearing out (efficiency, or a melting asset base). The ratio won't tell you which; the filings will.
Graham’s defensive tests · 1 of 4 met
Graham’s numerical criteria for the defensive investor (The Intelligent Investor, ch. 14), run on the filings. A floor of safety, not a buy signal; many fine modern businesses fail his strictest liquidity rules by design.
- Adequate size —Revenue ≥ $2B (a dollar floor) · €1.9B
What this means
Big enough to weather a storm. Graham's floor is a dollar figure — about $2B of revenue as a conservative modern stand-in. This company reports in its home currency and we carry no exchange rate, so we show the figure and leave the size bar for you to apply rather than convert it with a number we don't have.
- Strong liquidity NearCurrent ratio ≥ 2× · 1.59×
What this means
Current assets at least twice current liabilities, near-term bills covered without touching the business. Strict by design: many cash-rich modern firms run leaner and miss it, holding their cushion in longer-dated securities.
- Conservative debt PassDebt ≤ working capital · €162M vs €440M WC
What this means
Graham's rule that borrowings not exceed net current assets. Capital-heavy and buyback-heavy firms routinely fail it, read it next to interest coverage, not alone.
- Earnings stability MissA profit every year (7-yr record) · 2 loss years
What this means
Graham wanted earnings in each of the past ten years, the stability a defensive owner leans on.
- Dividend record MissUninterrupted dividends · 5 of 7 yrs
What this means
An unbroken dividend was Graham's mark of durability. He wanted twenty years; the filings show about ten, and a single suspension breaks the streak. Non-payers, many fine modern compounders, fall outside his defensive net by design.
- Earnings growth —Earnings +33% over the record · —
What this means
Earnings were negative early in the record, a growth rate isn't meaningful.
- Moderate price —P/E ≤ 15 and P/E × P/B ≤ 22.5 · decided by the price
What this means
Graham's valuation gate, the wall he kept between a sound business and a sound investment. Three-year average earnings are €0.38/share (latest year €0.38), the averaged base the calculator's gate runs on, and book value is €3.97/share. Enter a price in “What the price implies” just below for the P/E, P/B, and whether it clears. But this is the rule Buffett outgrew: there's no hard P/E law, and a wonderful business can deserve a far richer multiple if the thesis holds, treat it as the bargain-hunter's floor, not a verdict on the price.
Durability & moat, 2019–2025
Whether the record’s returns held, and what the capital reinvested earned.
- Profitable years 5 of 7
What this means
Lost money in 2 year(s), look at what happened there before trusting the average.
- Return on capital ≥ 15% 1 of 6 yrs
What this means
A moat shows up as a high return on invested capital that holds year after year, not one good vintage.
- Operating margin −1% → 9% (3-yr avg ends)
What this means
Through the cycle the operating margin widened — about −1% early to 9% lately, median 7% — pricing power intact or improving.
- Reinvestment, incremental ROIC returns capital
What this means
The capital base barely grew: this business returns cash through dividends and buybacks rather than reinvesting. Judge it on the cash returned, not on compounding.
- Owner earnings growth +17%/yr
What this means
Owner earnings grew about 17% a year over the record.
- Worst year 2021 · −7.3% op. margin
What this means
Operations went underwater in 2021, understand why before trusting the good years.
- Share count +4.3%/yr
What this means
The share count is rising, dilution works against you on a per-share basis.
- Dividend record rising
What this means
Paid and raised the dividend across the record, the continuity Graham prized.
Does AI threaten the moat?
Moderate contestabilityAI is likely to reshape costs and some products here without clearly contesting or sparing the core moat; how the company itself frames it is the tell.
The question is whether a moat the record shows as durable outlasts a technology that lowers the cost of part of what the firm sells. The durability is read in the record above, the filing's own framing of AI beside it; the industry label decides nothing on its own.
Read from the filing's own risk factors, paired with the industry's structure under its SIC code; the durability is read above, the price below.
All figures as filed; the source filing is linked above.
Current Position
as of fiscal year-end, Dec 31, 2025Can the business pay what it owes this year, off the freshest balance sheet: the quality of the assets, the debt actually coming due, and what a low ratio means here.
- Cash & short-term investments€298M
- Receivables€227M
- Inventory€507M
- Other current assets€159M
- Accounts payable€326M
- Other current liabilities€424M
From the company's latest filing.
How the cash was used, 2019–2025
Over the record, the business generated €1.6B of operating cash; how management split it reads as a balanced allocator, splitting cash between the business, owners, and the balance sheet.
- Reinvested€440M · 28%
- Dividends€108M · 7%
- Buybacks€455M · 29%
- Retained (debt / cash)€560M · 36%
- Returned to owners€563M
50% of the owner earnings the business produced over the span, €108M as dividends and €455M as buybacks.
- Average price paid for buybacks—
Buybacks ran €455M over the span, but the filings don't tag the share count needed to deduce the average price paid.
- Net change in share count28.8%
The diluted count rose from 202M to 260M: issuance (stock pay, deals) outran any buybacks, so owners were diluted on net.
- Dividend record€0.12/sh
Paid in 5 of the years on record. It was never cut over the span.
Buybacks are gross of stock issued to staff; the share-count line above is the net of that, the figure that decides whether owners gained. The average price paid blends a year of purchases (and any accelerated repurchase), so it is close, not exact. The record of where the cash went and on what terms.
Inverting the record
Invert: instead of why Ermenegildo Zegna N.V. is a good business, the question is what would make owning it a mistake, and whether those marks are in the record. Disconfirming tests across 2019–2025.
1 of the 3 tests turned up something to look into; the other 2 came back clean.
- Look hereDid the share count rise anyway?28.8%
Diluted shares grew 28.8% over 2019–2025, even as the company spent €455M on buybacks. The repurchases were outrun by issuance — to staff, in a raise, or in a deal — and the filing says which; owners' slice still shrank. Read the buyback line beside this one, not on its own.
- Is it less profitable than it was?
- Did reported profit become cash?
Each test is read from the filings and is noisy alone; a flag can mark a cyclical trough or a year of heavy investment as easily as a problem. The filing says which.
Peers, Textiles & Apparel
The same industry, side by side on owner economics. Each figure is a through-cycle median, so a peak or trough year can’t distort it; the group median at the foot is the line to read each against.
| Company | Revenue | Gross margin | Op. margin | ROIC | Owner earn. margin |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| LEVILevi Strauss & Co | $6.3B | 58% | 9.8% | 23% | 5% |
| UAUnder Armour Inc. | $5.0B | 46% | 2.3% | 4% | 2% |
| COLMColumbia Sportswear | $3.4B | 50% | 10.7% | 18% | 10% |
| GIIIG-III Apparel | $3.0B | 36% | 6.3% | 9% | 4% |
| CRICarter's | $2.9B | 43% | 11.0% | 24% | 9% |
| ZGNErmenegildo Zegna N.V. | €1.9B | 64% | 7.3% | 11% | 10% |
| OXMOxford Industries | $1.5B | 59% | 8.0% | 14% | 7% |
| FIGSFIGS Inc. | $631M | 70% | 6.0% | 8% | 8% |
| Group median | — | 54% | 7.7% | 13% | 8% |
The price
What a price has to assume.
What the price implies
reverse-DCFEnter the home-market price, not the US ADR quote. Ermenegildo Zegna N.V. reports in EUR, and every figure here (owner earnings, book value, the share count) is on that EUR, ordinary-share basis. Enter the price on the same basis: the local-exchange quote per ordinary share in EUR. A US ADR price in dollars bundles the ADR-to-ordinary ratio and the exchange rate, so it will not reconcile with these figures and would throw the multiple off.
Type today's close and see the owner-earnings growth you'd have to believe to justify it, beside what Ermenegildo Zegna N.V. has delivered.
Ermenegildo Zegna N.V.’s latest year runs above its own through-cycle margin — the reported figure may flatter a peak. So the tool opens on the through-cycle base, Graham’s averaging cutting both ways; clear the toggle below to read the latest year exactly as reported.
Through the cycle, Ermenegildo Zegna N.V. earns about €186M on its 9.7% median owner-earnings margin. This year’s 13.3% margin runs above that; the reported figure may flatter a peak you'd be paying on. Normalize, below, values the price on that through-cycle figure rather than the latest year. It comes pre-checked here for that reason, the same rule that already normalizes a trough; clear it to price the year as filed.
—
9.0% = the 4.55% 10-year Treasury (Jul 15, 2026) + 4.45 points of equity premium. The rate you require is yours to set.
Enter a price above to run it.
A dated snapshot of the price you typed, the assumptions you set, and what the page showed for them. A snapshot is never edited after it is saved. Your notebook is yours alone — the commitment states what is stored and what we will never do.
Graham capped the multiple at 15×; Buffett and Munger let that rule go: a wonderful business can deserve 50× if the thesis holds. The gate marks the bargain-hunter's floor.
Prefilled with the 10-year Treasury (4.55%, as of Jul 15, 2026). Edit it for today’s exact figure, or a AAA corporate yield.
Graham measured a stock against the bond you could own instead, the heart of his margin of safety. Enter a price above to weigh the owner-earnings yield against this bond.
Owner earnings €255M on 260M shares outstanding (a weighted average, the only count this filer tags); net cash €135M. The base opens on the through-cycle figure (the latest year sits above the record’s own median, and Graham’s averaging cuts both ways); clear Normalize to use the year as filed. Net of stock comp treats option pay as the expense it is. The dials set the multiple a growth belief justifies; the price, and every dollar on this page, is yours.
Manual order: ← ZENA its page in the Manual ZH →
Industry order: ← VFC the Textiles & Apparel chapter